Using spare wire or alligator clips, connect/hold one end to the Lillypad's GND pin and tap any of the trigger pins. You should hear a different sound clip for each trigger pin. Add some sensor integration. I was thinking about how best to control the light, and I found this incredible little sensor on sparkfun called a "bend sensor." This sensor acts as a variable resistor based on how much it's bent, kind of like a potentiometer. Adafruit sells one too. I was planning to hook up the lights with a simple dimming circuit either analog or with an attiny85 microcontroller. The Lilypad MP3 comes with the Trigger sketch preloaded. This sketch will play a sound from the microSD disc when the associated trigger pin (T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5) are pulled to ground. This is the obvious major step in this build, and you're welcome to stop after this step. Especially if you print the glove in red filament, you could make a similar build for a lot less work, but it won't have as nice a finish or color. It should be fairly self explanatory, but here was my process: To get around the stk500 sync errors, once it's done compiling (there's a green progress bar in the Arduin IDE) the green progress bar will go away, that's when you turn on your Lilypad MP3.

The second will "wipe" along the ring coloring each LED green and then pulse in brightness a few times before "wiping" the LEDs off. Then use the positive and negative leads that you connected in number 3. Plug the other end of these wires into the traces connected to the positive and negative leads of the battery. The plus should denote the positive side, but if you're not sure, the circuit will only work one way, so try both! It's not that important in a simple circuit like this, but it is good practice to plug in the negative lead first. You might need to repeat this step a few times before you get the scale correct. The armor in this tutorial was increased by 10% and then trimmed one at a time to get the fit to feel correct.

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Wait for good weather. Rather than testing fate on a day when it might rain, I waited a day or two until it was clear and sunny. Next I used my dremel rotary tool. I had this from a previous project, so it was convenient for me. You by no means have to use a fancy tool to sand, in fact I also used some sand paper by hand later on. use whatever tools you have available to you, and are comfortable using.

Find the model on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1779274 I used the models here. Big shoutout to DaDave for compiling this epic suit of 3D printed Iron Man Armor! I only printed the main hand piece, fingers, and the center disk, but you're welcome to print even more of the armor!

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Because you've been testing the system step-by-step, all that's left is to test to make sure the sketch was uploaded correctly. Overhaul the center disk piece. This part just didn't make any sense to me. I had to go out of my way to accommodate for it, so why not just design one that makes sense? it would also be nice to make a version for neopixel lights for more complex light behaviors.

Then place 3 more leds "in parallel" to this first one, the positive leads on one row, and the negative leads on another. Place the reference electrode nonadjacent to the muscle body that the other electrodes were placed. Print the fingers several times. The print was tuned for the person who designed it, but everyone's hand is a little different. Be prepared to print the pieces several times to tune the sizes to your own hand. I found it really helpful to keep a personal log of the print scalings and how well they fit me. Here is my final scalings: I went out and did about 6 thin coats at 30-60 minute intervals. This layering allowed the paint to adhere, prevented bubbles, lumps and drips. The strategy is basically to keep doing more coats until you get the color you want. Place the LEDs in the designated spaces, rotate so the positive loop is facing the "outside" face of the repulsor piece, and the negative lead is facing the "inside."This step took way more work than I was expecting and is fairly optional, but in my opinion it was totally worth it. Here's the bottom line: Next we want to connect a switch between the power lead of the battery and the power lead of the LED. Unplug the wire connecting the power lead of the battery and the power leads of the LEDs. Plug one lead of the switch into the "power rail," and the other(s) into adjacent rails. Finally, connect wire to trace of the other lead of the switch to complete the circuit. Position the speaker between the top and bottom upper palm pieces and cut out a circle in the top piece smaller then the diameter of the speaker. Apply a couple coats of plastic adhesion promoter on all the pieces. Follow instructions on the can.