If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

Fast Drying Time – Polycrylic dries much faster than traditional oil-based finishes, allowing you to apply multiple coats in a single day. Semi-gloss: A higher-gloss finish that provides a noticeable level of shine, without being too reflective or mirror-like.Let the first coat dry: Allow the first coat to dry completely, following the manufacturer’s recommended drying time. There's really no point in buying "satin" if you are going to wipe it on. If you thin gloss material and wipe it on, it's going to dry satin anyway. "Canned satin" will work, so go ahead and use it, but the problem with canned satin polys and varnishes is that they are made by adding fine "dust" to dull the gloss and you must regularly stir the stuff in the can to keep the "dust" in even suspension in the material. (Varnishes are always stirred, never shaken. Shaking ads minute bubbles to it which will ruin the finish.) Those who don't know this will often apply "satin" finishes right out of the material at top of a can in which the "satin dust" has settled and then can't figure out why their finish turned out glossy. Easy Cleanup – Polycrylic can be cleaned up with soap and water, making it much easier to work with than oil-based finishes that require harsh solvents. Seems that Minwax is fully compatible with artist oils, and to be sure of my color (after 'force drying' the test piece with a blow dryer) a little clear varnish was applied over to get the sheen of the pre-finished flooring - and the color would be 'flat' without the top coat of varnish. It looked good, so I went ahead and treated all the bull-nose needed. One day later I applied the clear Varnish (Varathane clear - a different brand name, but also compatible with Minwax) and the next day was able to go ahead doing the landing into our sunken family room ... We can't tell that anything was matched, it looks that good.

Polycrylic is a water-based, clear protective finish that can be applied to a variety of surfaces, including wood, metal, plastic, and more. This type of finish is known for its durability, clarity, and ease of use, making it an excellent choice for many different applications. Another thing to remember is that satin polys and varnishes almost always do not have any UV inhibitor added, so they don't resist UV degradation anywhere near those with UV inhibitors. This may not be a big deal with models that are never placed in direct sunlight, but no professional yacht painter worth their salt will ever use a satin varnish on anything that's going to be exposed to direct sunlight. The proper practice for producing a satin clear finish is to use a quality gloss coating with UV protection and then flatten the gloss by hand rubbing when it's dry with rottenstone and/or pumice or a fine Scotch-brite pad to obtain a uniform satin finish. Manufacturer-compounded "satin" clear finishes only mimic a quality hand rubbed finish and are quite inferior to the real thing. If you are sealing something that isn’t a flat surface (like a chair), you can also get it in a spray can. Polycrylic FAQs If you are using sealer on a painted project, you MUST use polycrylic. NEVER use an oil-based sealer over a painted surface, it absolutely will ruin it by turning yellow. Here are a couple of examples.Apply subsequent coats: Apply additional coats of polycrylic in the same manner, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. For best results, apply at least two coats. Stir the polycrylic: Thoroughly stir the polycrylic to ensure that it is well-mixed and any settled particles are evenly distributed.

If wood is conditioned with 'boiled' linseed oil (and unless it says 'raw' linseed oil on the container, it will have a 'dryer' in it), it is advisable to mix it 50-50 with ordinary turpentine. Some woods will darken with this application, such as walnut or mahogany ... mush less so with lighter woods. If a few days go by, the turpentine (which assisted penetration of the linseed oil) will have 'out-gassed', leaving the linseed oil to cross-link by the action of the dryer. I have a tin of 'Japan dryer' (enough to last a lifetime), and am in the habit of adding a drop per half pint of linseed oil or any oil-based paint to insure good drying. Can polycrylic be used over oil-based finishes? Yes, polycrylic can be used over oil-based finishes (like oil based stain), but it is important to first lightly sand the surface and clean it thoroughly to ensure proper adhesion. It is also important to test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure that the polycrylic adheres properly and does not cause any damage. Prepare the surface: Before applying polycrylic, make sure the surface is clean, dry, and free of any dust, dirt, or debris. If necessary, sand the surface to remove any rough spots or imperfections.Low Oder – Polycrylic has very little smell compared to other finishes, making it a better choice for indoor applications. Polycrylic can be applied using a brush, a roller, or a sprayer, depending on your personal preference and the type of project you’re working on. Here are the general steps for applying polycrylic using a brush: Can polycrylic be used on all types of surfaces? Polycrylic is generally safe to use on a wide range of surfaces, including wood, painted surfaces, and even paper or fabric-based projects. However, it is important to test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it adheres properly and does not cause any damage. Polycrylic is available in several sheens, which refers to the level of gloss or shine that the finish provides. The available sheens may vary depending on the manufacturer and product line, but the most common sheens for polycrylic are:

Clear Finish – Polycrylic dries to a clear, transparent finish that does not yellow over time, allowing the natural beauty and colr of the underlying material to shine through. The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. Sand the final coat: Once the final coat has dried, lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections or brush marks. Wipe the surface with a clean, damp cloth to remove any dust. Apply the first coat: Dip the brush into the polycrylic and apply a thin, even coat to the surface, working in the direction of the wood grain. Be careful not to over-brush, as this can cause brush marks and bubbles.

Sand the surface: Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or imperfections. Wipe the surface with a clean, damp cloth to remove any dust. Polycrylic is applied in thin layers using a brush or sprayer. As each layer dries, it forms a protective barrier on top of the previous layer. Multiple layers can be applied to achieve the desired level of protection and sheen.