If you get that right and the print holds on the flex plate (more on that in a moment), it's a great thing. the magnet pad can detach from the platform if the glue is dissolved by IPA or similar agents (has happened to me). the trolley falls until it triggers the optical lower limit switch, causing firmware to stop the stepper motor; The only way to position the trolley to the logical "zero" position--other than manual re-positioning after the "Home" button has been pressed--is via G-Code commands ("G28 Z", "G 90 G1 Z0", etc.) in a "print" file.

If one had dealt attentively with the topic, one would have realized that one must print out a spacer with the old platform BEFORE modification, which must be inserted between the flag and threaded spindle. Additionally you need to replace the 2 screws with matching ones, because the original ones are too short, of course. Small Footprint but Large Printing Size】Mars 3 has a large printing volume of 89.6mm*143.43mm*175mm. For this purpose I used 2 super strong neodymium magnets in the size 20x40x5mm, which I had lying around here and glued them with super glue on the TOP of the platform. Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first! The Double Wham contains: Excellent Printing Accuracy】Provides 30% improvement compared to the 2K screen of Mars 2. The finished print looks much closer to the model itself.

Customer Reviews

The home function of the printer does not ensure that the last set zero point is directly approached. Instead it works like this: WB Magnetic Base with 3M adhesive resistant to harsh solvents and chemicals like resin, mean green, and isopropyl alcohol

As an alternative, there are recently the flex plates. These thin metal sheets are held to the platform with the help of a magnetic intermediate layer. After printing you can detach the flex plate from the printing platform, bent it and your model will detach from the flex plate easy. -easy peasy I have observed this in two MARS units I have repaired for others. In both the trolley was so tight in the rails that when the stepper motor attempted to raise it it could not, or "missed a step", causing the motor to "cog"² and not actually move one or more steps. When that happens the firmware thinks the Z-axis has moved but it has not; this fouls up the internal count and the firmware now has absolutely no idea of where the build-plate really is. Missing one or two steps may not be immediately audible as is the "grinding" of a complete jam. In both of the printers I repaired the Z-axis trolley was incorrectly adjusted so as to be absurdly tight within the rails, requiring 4 or 5 lbf to be moved. This is a pretty good YouTube video describing proper adjustment of the Z-axis trolley. The fellow calls it "calibration", which of course it is not as nothing is "calibrated" against any standard--it is simply an adjustment. At least it worked for me with models larger than 130 mm and really heavy (last model about 250 grams!). If you do not know this and just hit "home" -the printer tries to approach the absolute zero point with its platform.Chitubox Pro Slicer】Comes with the Chitubox Pro Slicing Software for FREE one year, no need to pay for it within the period. Powerful COB Light Source】XY resolution: 0.035(4098*2560px); The heat sink system works 50% higher heat dissipation efficiency than ordinary sink.