I’m aiming for a degree of realism with this model, and that goes for the skeletons too. To achieve this, I needed to think about how a body might look if it had been strung up and left in the elements until only the bones remained. That meant looking at a lot of reference images of ancient mummies, desiccated corpses and other such unpleasant things. The final look achieved using the process set out in this tutorial is the culmination of that macabre research.

Add in more Dark Reaper and layer up, concentrating on the outer edges and raised areas. This is subtle but will build up. Wash the gold with Gloss Reikland Fleshshade. Necro Gold is a somewhat greenish gold, and the red tones in the fleshshade warm up the colors while retaining the darker tone. Disclaimer** I will be eventually basing all of my Cursed City on 3D printed bases so the current bases are “temporary”… but if anyone asks, it’s snowing in the decaying city of Ulfenkarn. This gives you a lot of freedom to experiment! You can go for the plain, empty wasteland style, or use scrub bushes and trees, and a wide range of colours. Below are a number of techniques our authors use to create their own desert bases – you can try using them, or take them as inspiration for your own.

Wasteland-Style Goodbyes

The key here is to leave a good area flat area for your models to stand on, then some interesting shapes as required.

Because I wanted my flagstones to look old and weathered, I gave them a little extra texture by taking a very small (3mm) and roughly textured stone, and rolling it gently around on the green stuff to create subtle, irregular indentations. The more pressure you apply, the rougher the flagstones will look. The next step is the real secret sauce. I created a reasonably dilute wash with a mix of Golden High Flow Acrylics Sepia (pretty much a more concentrated Agrax Earthshade), Golden High Flow Acrylics Dioxazine Purple, and the product formerly known as Future Floor Polish (Now Pledge Floor Care Finish, unless they’ve changed it again.) I wash the entire model in this color, removing excess where it pools too much. If you are working with Games Workshop paints, a mix of Druchii Violet, Agrax Earthshade and water/lahmian medium will work just fine. You will, however, be spending a lot more money to wash an entire army of Custodes using this method. At this point the gold is complete. It’s simple, but has a nice rich depth and purplish warmth to it. Apply a dot of White to the top-left of the jewel (the part painted with Incubi Darkness). This should be a literal dot. Don’t worry if you mess up: Re-paint the area with Incubi Darkness and try again! http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo

Mix in a little more Skavenblight Dinge and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit Highlight almost all the gold with Scale 75 Dwarven Gold, leaving the Necro Gold in just the recesses. Scabbard & Weapon Handles – Base with Screamer Pink, wash with Agrax Earthshade and highlight with Screamer Pink. Mix in a little more Warboss Green and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit Highlight both areas with Rakarth Flesh mixed 1:1 with Pallid Wych Flesh . Make these fairly chunky edge/regular highlights.

There’s just one last thing to show you for this scheme, the power lance blade. You could use this for any of the power weapons custodes wield. Necron Monolith – The Necron Monolith is a massive, ancient, and heavily armored vehicle used by the Necrons, an ancient alien race. The Monolith is designed to resemble a giant stone pyramid and Karak Stone paint can be used to paint the Monolith’s surface, giving it a realistic and natural-looking appearance.

Coda’s Davonic Badlands Extravaganza

You can, however, decide to go on and add some battle damage to your mini by following these steps. Dip your sponge in the thin shade mix. It will soak up a lot, so you’ll want to press the sponge against a paper towel to remove some of the excess. Then dab the sponge haphazardly over the stone surface, just in a few areas - only cover about 20% of the model. You may find that the wash begins to pool in the recesses, which you don’t want. If this happens keep dabbing at it with the sponge, spreading it around a little if necessary. You’re trying to create a very subtle mottled effect on the surface. It may be barely noticeable at first, but as you continue to build up colour the combined effect will be worth it. The final step is perhaps the most fun. Again, this is three steps in one, using the same technique with three different colours. This time, the technique is sponging, and we’re going to use it with washes or shades to add some subtle colour variation across the stone. Heydemann, Steven; Joint Committee on the Near and Middle East (2000). War, Institutions, and Social Change in the Middle East. University of California Press. ISBN 9780520224223. Axe Head – Base with Stormhost Silver, glaze with thinned Calth Blue (This used to be Guilliman Blue, but GW Don’t make it anymore), stipple White Scar as frosting and edge highlight with White Scar.

Al-Karak's metropolitan population was estimated to be 68,800 in 2013, making up 31.5% of the total population of the Karak Governorate. Most of the population of the city is Muslim (75%) and there is also a significant Christian population (25%). In general, the percentage of Christians in al-Karak is among the highest in Jordan. [ citation needed] Cuisine [ edit ]Step 4 – Drybrush Karak Stone. This paint is extremely similar to the color of Armageddon Dust, but a little bit more vibrant. Drybrush Karak Stone across the entire base, including the slate chips, until there is a bit of highlight on all the raised bits of the texture. Be sure to drybrush all sides of the slate chip, as that’s how you get your defining lines on the stone that you can see at a distance. The area eventually fell under the power of the Nabateans. The Roman Empire conquered it from them in AD105. The city was known in Late Antiquity as Harreketh.