Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Technical Typhus Corrosion

Product Information

For a metallic accent to your Typhus Corrosion, consider using the Citadel Colour paint called Mithril Silver. This paint provides a smooth and reflective finish, perfect for adding highlights and details to your miniature’s armor, weapons and other metallic surfaces.

I took a basic three colour tournament legal painted skeleton and turned it into something much cooler using every single one of these new paints. It was fast and simple. Imagine an army painted like this? Wouldn’t take long and would look pretty effective.

This paint may be used for more than just these three armies; in fact, it’s a terrific place for beginners to start if they want to try their hand at giving their miniatures a spooky, post-apocalyptic appearance. Typhus Corrosion Colour Schemes & Combinations Have a play with the mix, but you’ll likely want to add or remove the Dirty Down depending on how strong you want the rust effect to be. Step 4 – Applying Rhodium plating is a corrosive prevention method in which the metal is coated in a thin layer of rhodium for added strength and shine. This process can also resist scratches on the metal surface and provides a shiny appearance. So, taking all that we learned from @gobble_inz and applying some of that signature FauxHammer corner cutting and hobby cheating charm, this is the method we came up with for painting rust using Dirty Down’s incredible Rust Water Soluble Paint. Step 1 – Priming Once the Mournfang Brown is dry, cover the areas of the miniature you wish to appear rusty with Dirty down’s Rust Water Soluble paint.

The majority of this guide is going to be built around using the above-mentioned Rust Water Soluble Paint from Dirty Down. Because this is in-part an exploration of this product, in part a painting guide, we’re actually going to go through a couple of methods for using this rust paint instead of just one. We’re going to take this already pretty grimdark model to the furthest extremities of grimdarkness. We’ll be needing that nice, reddish brown later, so make sure you’ve built up a good, opaque layer before moving on to the next step, Step 4 – Dirty Down (Again) Allow the figure to dry– Put it somewhere safe and let it dry completely. This may take several hours, depending on the paint you used.Any item not in its original condition, is damaged or missing parts for reasons not due to our error Use a coarse brush– When using Blood for the Blood God, ensure you have a good course brush. Add paint to the bristles by dipping it into the pot. Make sure everything is dry, then take a wet brush and begin scrubbing away at those worn areas with a wet brush.

Cover the model in AK Worn Effects Acrylic Fluid. We used an airbrush for this, but you can use a regular brush too. Step 7 – Add ColourIn the same way, for different metals, solutions of different metallic salts are used. Two copper plates are hung in this tank, and then the brass job too is hung in it. Treating the copper plates as anode and brass plates as cathode, we will connect them to the DC supply and give a current of 2 to 3 volts. Load your brush– Make sure you have a good, dry brush. Add paint to the bristles by dipping it into the pot. If you use a detail brush, apply less paint to the brush, and if you use a larger base brush, apply more paint. My first go was the rust-armour, and it was Leadbelcher, then Typhus Corrosion then Ryza Rust ended with sponge "chipping" or drybrush LeadBelcher, with sometimes some splotches of Nihilakh Oxide. It's really all about being a bit random and not be afraid to over do it with the rust and grime, as you can dampen it down some with Leadbelcher with some Agrax Earthshade.