Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

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I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White. Color Space Conversions Decimal 16190746 Binary 11110111, 00001101, 00011010 Hexadecimal #f70d1a LRV ≈ 20.1% Closest short hex #e22 ΔE = 1.638 RGB rgb(247, 13, 26) RGBA rgba(247, 13, 26, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.864, g: 0.045, b: 0.091 RYB red: 96.863%, yellow: 5.098%, blue: 10.196% Android / android.graphics.Color -586470 / 0xfff70d1a HSL hsl(357, 94%, 51%) HSLA hsla(357, 94%, 51%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 357° (356.667), saturation: 95% (0.947), value: 97% (0.969) HSP hue: 356.667, saturation: 94.737%, perceived brightness: 53.221% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 11.666, S: 97.787, L: 51.999 Cubehelix H: -11.458, S: 1.653, L: 0.332 TSL T: 3.999, S: 0.810, L: 0.331 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 95% (0.947), yellow: 89% (0.895), key: 3% (0.031) CMY cyan: 3% (0.031), magenta: 95% (0.949), yellow: 90% (0.898) XYZ X: 38.693, Y: 20.143, Z: 2.828 xyY x: 0.627, y: 0.327, Y: 20.143 CIELab L: 51.999, a: 77.471, b: 58.011 CIELuv L: 51.999, u: 165.766, v: 34.227 CIELCH / LCHab L: 51.999, C: 96.783, H: 36.826 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 51.999, C: 169.263, H: 11.666 Hunter-Lab L: 44.881, a: 75.347, b: 27.681 CIECAM02 J: 45.768, C: 105.417, h: 29.455, Q: 133.287, M: 92.185, s: 83.164, H: 11.865 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.702, jaune: 6.806, green: -15.058 LMS L: 36.549, M: 6.986, S: 3.171 YCbCr Y: 88.579, Cb: 99.075, Cr: 229.803 YCoCg Y: 74.750, Cg: -61.750, Co: 117.000 YDbDr Y: 84.448, Db: -87.971, Dr: -309.101 YPbPr Y: 63.778, Pb: -20.410, Pr: 116.402 xvYCC Y: 70.774, Cb: 110.071, Cr: 230.251 YIQ Y: 84.448, I: 135.221, Q: 53.525 YUV Y: 84.448, U: -28.760, V: 142.610 Okhsl h: 27.692, s: 0.994, l: 0.555 Okhsv h: 27.692. s: 0.989, v: 0.970 Okhwb h: 27.692, w: 0.010, b: 0.030 Oklab l: 0.616, a: 0.220, b: 0.115 Oklch l: 0.616, c: 0.248, h: 27.692 Munsell Color System 7.5R 5/16 ΔE = 5.330 Brand Color Coca Cola ΔE = 1.250 Random Colors Khorne red has a lot more blue in it than Mephiston, so it is a pretty good base color for red armor because it makes getting the dark contrasting areas less work. These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models.

I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin Genson The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex.

Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition. I then weathered the hell out of them with Rhinox Hide on a sponge, hitting both the shoulder pads and the white armor, concentrating on wear areas – knees, hands, and elbows mainly. You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe

If you are looking to buy some new paints that stand out and compliment your miniatures then look no further, it is no secret that Citadel paints are some of the best in the business both in popularity and quality. Whether you want to buy paint for basing, highlighting, shading, creating texture or just touching up already painted models Games Workshop makes it all and we have it here. Between the Citadel Contrast, Base, Shade, Dry, Layer and Technical ranges you will find every paint you could ever need in the Citadel paints category. Red is, bar none, the hardest color to make look good on power armor. It's worse than yellow, there, I said it. Transfers – I’ll keep this brief as plenty has been written here already; I get all my sets from Mighty Brush and do the following: The metallic highlights used were Pro Acryl Copper and Vallejo Game Color Chainmail. For these I wipe a bit of the paint off on a paper towel before running the brush against the upper surfaces of the metals areas. It’s similar to a drybrush technique. The leather bits were highlighted with Vallejo Flat Earth.Blue Malayan Coral Snake : The effect on the body was achieved by using thinned Frostheart Contrast with a White Scar drybrush, wet blending with Blood Angels Red Contrast for the head and tail. Scales are Leviadon Blue with a Blue Horror drybrush. Red highlights are perceived as different colors more easily than others. You can add white but then the highlights are "pink", or you can add yellow, but then they read as "orange". When we paint blue, green, yellow armor, we tend to just process those colors' highlights as "light blue" or "light green". This is sort of arbitrary and a byproduct of our color naming conventions, but I think it has an impact on how we perceive color. That means that you need to highlight with a much more careful and precise hand than other colors, because when the pink or orange stray too far from extreme edges, you negate the sense of "red". That just doesn't seem to be the case with other colors. This highlighting problem leads a lot of people to try to get away with not adding enough highlights, going for a more flat red "realistic" look, but most of the time that approach doesn't look good from more than about a forearm's length away, and doesn't photograph very well either. The Wild Rider Red acrylic paint from Citadel Colour is a premium color that’s ideal for painting miniatures. The base coat is a deep, rich crimson with a matte texture that offers good coverage. To ensure that the color is stable and long-lasting, the pigments used in the paint are carefully chosen. Wild Rider Red is a fantastic base color for any beginner’s palette since it offers a stable foundation for layering and highlighting. For factions who utilize red as part of their color scheme, it can be used as an alternative to a primary red. What armies to paint with Wild Rider Red

I don't actually think the exact paints/washes you use matter as much as simply attending to those issues. I've used Coelia Greenshade in the crevices and that works pretty well, but lately I've been just using carrowburg crimson because it's easier, although it doesn't get the same dark shade in the grooves. You may have noticed that Rippy is a bit of an oddity, a Ripper of Unusual Size if you will. I made him by using some pieces that most Tyranid players end up with a lot of; a Trygon skull cap, toxin sacs, extra claws, and a Genestealer head. You can see how it all comes together in the image below. More adventurous modelers who worry about people looking “under the shell” so to speak are welcome to shove Green Stuff into the gaps and make it look suitably organic. Personally I just tell people that Rippy would appreciate it if they didn’t violate his personal space. Rippers. Credit: Primaris Kevin Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash. I do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result.

At the risk of going slightly off topic, I’d like to say that I prefer to start with khorne red, then wazdakka red, finishing with evil sunz scarlet completely eschewing Mephiston red. They are certainly differing levels on the dark-light scale, but I don’t think any of them have any ‘orange’ or ‘pink’ to them so they’re not going to clash. However, I’ll admit that this method is not going to give you a large amount of contrast if that’s what you’re looking for. It’s just textured enough for my taste whilst still being easy. When I first met Porter, he was carrying powder for a regiment of Empire Handgunners. Knowing that gunpowder and monkeys are a disaster waiting to happen, I sent him off to the Talabheim Tappers, a local Free Company Militia regiment where he could be safe and oh god he’s GOT A KNIFE