I know that GU10 LED 220V on a dimmer they should be sold as dimmable, but if you use MR16 12V with a dimmable driver, are 12V LED bulbs already dimmable and OK for say 3-12V? If you’re switching to LED MR16s from halogen MR16s, then LED drivers are pretty important. They’re used to power low voltage (12v) LED bulbs and strip lighting, providing a constant current to make sure they work properly. They’re mainly used for strip lighting, and MR16, MR11 and G4 spotlight bulbs. In some cases your existing (normal) 12v transformer will work. However, this can reduce the lifespan of the bulb. Not sure what you mean by splitter, if more than 1 light is run off a single output of the transformer you may well overload it. Personally I'd get rid of the transformer and wire in 240V GU10 bulbs instead. The 12V side of the transformer is high current and the number of times I've seen the transformer partially melted due to a poor (high resistance) connection... also no transformer means one less thing to fail. Halogen bulbs claim to last 2000hrs (2 years average), but it’s more like 1000. Some GU10 LEDs claim 24,000hrs, but that’s an even bigger lie! However, the EU implemented a law in 2014 – LEDs now must last at least 6000hrs, so they last 3x longer than halogens, minimum (more like 6x longer or more)!

Transformer - Screwfix Aurora 11.4V Electronic SELV Lighting Transformer - Screwfix

Tridonic Atco speedy. Their specified load requirements were 0.1-0.3 A, 20-60 W, 20-60W and 0.1-0.3 A, respectively. An Atco TM50-2 wire wound transformer was used for comparison. The primary winding for each I was actually thinking of getting them replaced with LEDs but thought I'd do like for like right now just to get it sorted. rememberong all the time that SMPS ( aka "electronic transformers" ) described as having an AC output maybe producing AC at a frequency much higher than 50 Hz.

I appreciate that brown wire input is live (L) and blue wire input is neutral (N) but what does the output symbol (circle with x in it with 1/2 square boxes) on the transformer mean? Does it mean that it doesn't matter which terminals the wires to the light go into on the output? Electronic transformers are very simple switched mode power supplies. They "chop" the input 230 V/125 V sine wave in a way that will yield an average output voltage of 12 V. However, the peak voltage will be much higher and will eventually kill LEDs (that's no problem with Halogen lamps because they react more slowly). In addition, the chopped waveform may cause radio interference if the cables to the lamps are too long. The waveform may also be the reason why your voltage readings are off. Hi Bill, replacing with GU10’s is 100% what we would suggest. The transformers make replacing MR16 a bit of a pain – especially given each bulb has its own one.

MR16 LED spotlights. 12V powered lights Your guide to MR16 LED spotlights. 12V powered lights

similar responses to identical loads. Both transformers specify a minimum load requirement of 0.1 A. Typically, LED drivers are limited to an upper level power output of 100W - 200W. This means that LED drivers are the power supply of choice for small LED lighting setups in the home, as individual LEDs may only require 2V - 4V DC. When LEDs are connected in a series - or ‘array’ - a much higher voltage is required. In this case, an LED transformer may be installed (e.g. to power a light strip). LED Transformers The GU10 and the MR16 are the main two spotlights used in the home today. Most people have them in their kitchens and/or lounges and unfortunately the existing halogen spotlights are incredibly expensive to run. Both types of spotlight are pretty similar in appearance but underneath the bonnet they are fundamentally different. identical loads varied greatly, however while power losses do tend to increase with an increase in switching The first number gives the protection level against solid objects from 0-6 with 6 the best protection (i.e. no dust or anything would enter the device).false. You must’ve had 1 bad ‘bulb’ (LED bulbs are called lamps, I think, and they contain many LEDs in each lamp). The LEDs in each lamp slowly fail and thus the light dims (30% failed LEDs is where they deemed to be dead, I think, or 70% ?). Hello! My halogen (yes, I know...) bathroom lights have stopped working so I'm going to replace the transformer to see if that works first. I am building a wall cabinet with downlights in the shelves, for which I would like to use MR16 LEDs. However, my first attempt was obviously deficient, since two of the LEDs blew. I'd appreciate some help to figure out a) what went wrong, and b) what I need to install them properly. Often extra low voltage (12 volt) is wired with twin core, it says "A circuit protective conductor shall be run to and terminated at each point in wiring and at each accessory except a lampholder having no exposed-conductive-parts and suspended from such a point." in the main MR16 lamps are not suspended so need and earth taking to lamp even if not used. The ~ sign indicates alternating current. Also, the minimum load is indicated as 10W. This is important when using LEDs

MR16 Transformer and Dimmer Compatibility Consumer LED MR16 Transformer and Dimmer Compatibility

I had transformers on all my downlights when I moved in, several transformers had gone, slowly I replaced them all with 240V LEDs (like these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/enlite-e8cx-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-without-bezel-580-620lm-8w-220-240v/3631x).An MR16 spotlight, short for " Multifaceted Reflector 16," is a versatile and popular lighting fixture known for its precision and adaptability. These compact, low-voltage LED spotlights are designed with a multifaceted reflector that directs light in a controlled and focused manner, making them ideal for accent and spotlighting applications. The first thing you need to do is determine the existing type of transformer you have in your MR16 circuit. This will most likely be situated up in the roof above the light fittings – now in some circuits there is one transformer, but sometimes every individual light fitting has its own transformer. They tend to come in two varieties; the first is the older wire-wound magnetic transformers and the second is the newer electronic low-voltage transformer. Both work by stepping down the mains voltage (240v) to 12 volts, which allows the bulbs to function. Would it make more sense to swap these out for another 4 LED-specific transformers, or replace all 4 with a single transformer? I see a lot of support for swapping out in favour of GU10 fittings, but I'm not sure about the extra effort of running earth to each fitting, as well as any mess I might make of the ceiling when replacing them. GU, which stands for “general use”, refers to the base, or fitting, of the bulb. The number after GU refers to the spacing between the pins. GU10 has 10 mm spacing, while GU5.3 has 5.3 mm spacing. The output waveform of several electronic transformers for 12VAC MR16 lighting was measured using a Tektronix