Unit 16 High Carr Network Centre, Millennium Way, High Carr Business Park, Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffordshire, ST5 7XE Each Google Nest product works out how to make your home better. So imagine what they can do when they work together. If Nest Protect detects carbon monoxide, the Nest Thermostat can turn off your boiler, because it's a common source of CO leaks. And when the Nest Protect senses smoke, it can turn on Nest Cam to help find out where it came from. Yep like that - they're called 'Lifestyle 2-port motorised valve', there is one underneath the pump on a pipe that doesn't go into the cylinder, and one on a pipe that come off the other pipe and goes into the cylinder about halfway up it.

More Add Plumbing Business Post / Search Plumbing Jobs Add Plumbing Video Advertise on PlumbersForums.net I thought the job was done however it seems that the heating still won’t come on… can’t tell if the hot water is working as when I turn the shower on it is hot but we do have a hot water tank. Any help would be appreciated I can’t see where my wiring is wrong but as you may have gathered this isn’t my strong suit. Ok, try this; power off, and move the lever from one extreme to t'other a few times. What does it feel like? Does it move smoothly against spring pressure? Both ways? Does it make a faint 'whirring' sound both ways? Where does it 'settle' when released? I don’t know your boiler but would expect it to be redundant yes. I believe its there to be able to convert to a combi if needed. As you say, the junction box on the floor is just to extend the cable from CH valve, so it doesn't hang in the air.

Why Use The Engineer Scheme?

But this has got me thinking, why stop there? Our boiler is controlled by an ancient looking Honeywell timer which from Googling I think is a Honeywell ST699 (except our version features a delightful brown/beige colour scheme!) There is also an equally old looking thermostat dial in the hall (just above the radiator which doesn't strike me as an ideal location!). Having said that I suppose it can't hurt to put a TRV on the kitchen radiator as that doesn't really need to be on while we're in there cooking, worth considering I suppose... It's often the case that a standard cable L, N, E is used to connect a room thermostat and the N conductor is often used as the switched live. It should really have a brown sleeve over it (or red in the case of older installations) to indicate that it is being used as a live, but not all do, as you have discovered.

Does that mean hot water tank in airing cupboard which is heated via the boiler? (You may also have a separate immersion switch for the tank). It's all connected and I've set the time and date, all is okay. However, even though the lights come on, it won't fire up either the heating or the water!Hi, I drained the the central heating, to remove a radiator. After refilling it, the heating now won’t work. Early batteries were removable and Varta make a replacement for about a fiver. You could try Maplin among other suppliers.

No, I meant "have" cables linking on the ST699 as they are still connected. So I disconnected the power supply, the boiler and the water and these were left connected. I can confirm the hot water was never permanently on and came on twice a day. We also have the option of switching on the emersion for water. However, the ST699 has two simple switches inside, one for heating and one for hot water, and so does the Hive. From an electrical point of view they are the same, so you are simply exchanging one switch for another identical one. For exchange purposes, what's on the other end of the wiring is irrelevant really, provided that the ST699 was installed and working correctly in the first place. This has lead me to think that while I'm replacing valves anyway I may as well use the opportunity to fit Thermostatic valves to all the upstairs radiators. I always thought I would need to replace the boiler system to get these but (unless I'm very mistaken) it's just a case of swapping the valves on the existing system. Not so worried about downstairs but our upstairs rooms are very prone to overheating and I think TRVs would really help and save money.

If you have a S-Plan system with a single heating zone 3 for HW-On and 4 for CH-On, nothing to either 1 or 2. Whilst Hive has an earth terminal it isn't actually connected to anything. Hive doesn't need an earth connection itself. The terminal is just there to 'park' any earth wires that happen to be present and keep them together so that they are safely out of the way of the other terminals.