Fastest to reach the summit via the southeast ridge (South Col), with supplemental oxygen, by Pemba Dorje, in 8 hours and 10 minutes. [303] Debilitating effects of the death zone are so great that it takes most climbers up to 12 hours to walk the distance of 1.72 kilometres (1.07mi) from South Col to the summit. [255] Achieving even this level of performance requires prolonged altitude acclimatisation, which takes 40–60 days for a typical expedition. A sea-level dweller exposed to the atmospheric conditions at the altitude above 8,500m (27,900ft) without acclimatisation would likely lose consciousness within 2 to 3 minutes. [256] Geology of Mount Everest". everest1953.co.uk. Archived from the original on 24 June 2016 . Retrieved 13 November 2018. The quakes trapped hundreds of climbers above the Khumbu icefall, and they had to be evacuated by helicopter as they ran low on supplies. [181] The quake shifted the route through the ice fall, making it essentially impassable to climbers. [181] Bad weather also made helicopter evacuation difficult. [181] The Everest tragedy was small compared to the impact overall on Nepal, with almost nine thousand dead [182] [183] and about 22,000 injured. [182] In Tibet, by 28 April at least 25 had died, and 117 were injured. [184] By 29 April 2015, the Tibet Mountaineering Association (North/Chinese side) closed Everest and other peaks to climbing, stranding 25 teams and about 300 people on the north side of Everest. [185] On the south side, helicopters evacuated 180 people trapped at Camps 1 and 2. [186] Mountain re-opens in August 2015

the records Nims Purja broke in new Netflix 14 Peaks: All the records Nims Purja broke in new Netflix

By the end of the 2010 climbing season, there had been 5,104 ascents to the summit by about 3,142 individuals, with 77 per cent of these ascents being accomplished since 2000. [153] The summit was achieved in 7 of the 22 years from 1953 to 1974 and was not missed between 1975 and 2014. [153] In 2007, the record number of 633 ascents was recorded, by 350 climbers and 253 sherpas. [153] The 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest led by Tony Streather put Bronco Lane and Brummy Stokes on the summit by the normal route. Reinhold Messner was the first climber to break the bottled oxygen tradition and in 1978, with Peter Habeler, made the first successful climb without it. In 1980, Messner summited the mountain solo, without supplemental oxygen or any porters or climbing partners, on the more difficult northwest route. Once the climbing community was satisfied that the mountain could be climbed without supplemental oxygen, many purists then took the next logical step of insisting that is how it should be climbed. [24] :154

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On 21 May 2007, Canadian climber Meagan McGrath initiated the successful high-altitude rescue of Nepali Usha Bista. Recognising this rescue, Major McGrath was selected as a 2011 recipient of the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation of Canada Humanitarian Award, which recognises a Canadian who has personally or administratively contributed a significant service or act in the Himalayan Region of Nepal. [152] Ascent statistics up to 2010 season Ascents of Mount Everest by year through 2010 The sun rising on Everest in 2011

The ascent of Everest : Hunt, John, Sir, 1910- : Free

Main article: Timeline of climbing Mount Everest The Khumbu Icefall in 2005 The Western Cwm ("Coom"), with Everest on the left and Lhotse to the right At the higher regions of Mount Everest, climbers seeking the summit typically spend substantial time within the death zone (altitudes higher than 8,000 metres (26,000ft)), and face significant challenges to survival. Temperatures can dip to very low levels, resulting in frostbite of any body part exposed to the air. Since temperatures are so low, snow is well-frozen in certain areas and death or injury by slipping and falling can occur. High winds at these altitudes on Everest are also a potential threat to climbers. The 2015 feature film Everest, directed by Baltasar Kormákur, is based on the events of this guiding disaster. [132] 2006 mountaineering season 2006 fatalities Profiting from the Swiss experience the previous year, Hunt’s men worked their way up the Khumbu glacier, through its fearsome icefall and across the western Cwm to the foot of the Lhotse face. They scaled the face, traversed the steep ice slope above and finally reached the wind-blasted South Col. From a camp here, two attempts were made on the summit. The second, by Hillary and Tenzing, put them on top of the world at 11.30am on 29 May, 1953. Mighty Everest had been tamed at last. Nicolson retreated to Patna on the Ganges to perform the necessary calculations based on his observations. His raw data gave an average height of 9,200m (30,200ft) for peak "b", but this did not consider light refraction, which distorts heights. However, the number clearly indicated that peak "b" was higher than Kangchenjunga. Nicolson contracted malaria and was forced to return home without finishing his calculations. Michael Hennessy, one of Waugh's assistants, had begun designating peaks based on Roman numerals, with Kangchenjunga named PeakIX. Peak "b" now became known as PeakXV. [16]

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In 1956 the Swiss performed the remarkable feat of getting two ropes up Everest and one up Lhotse, using oxygen. Members of the expedition were A. Eggler (leader), W. Diehl, H. Grimm, H.R. von Gunten, E. Leuthold, F. Luchsinger, J. Marmet, F. Müller, Reiss, A. Reist, and E. Schmied. They followed roughly the British route up the icefall and the Lhotse face. From their Camp VI Reiss and Luchsinger reached the summit of Lhotse on May 18. Camp VI was moved to the South Col, and the summit of Everest was reached from a camp at 27,500 feet (8,380 metres) by Marmet and Schmied (May 23) and Gunten and Reist (May 24). Attempts of 1960 Biswas, Soutik (20 October 2003). "The man who "discovered" Everest". BBC News . Retrieved 11 April 2008.