I use the "Z-min" configuration and there we have to look for the yellow (control) and white (sensor) pins. This glass plate has very good adhesion and a very smooth surface. When the heated bed cools down, the adhesion decreases and you can easily remove your finished artwork. After flashing the firmware, make sure you first run the G-Code provided, to reset to factory defaults and clear EEPROM. Copy the .gcode file on your SD Card and “print” it. I’d rate the Artillery Sidewinder X1 as a “very good” 3D printer. However, it also has its weaknesses.

BMG Wind Review: Sidewinder X1 Upgrade Guide - 3DPrintBeginner BMG Wind Review: Sidewinder X1 Upgrade Guide - 3DPrintBeginner

The Sidewinder X2 inherits the classic design of the Sidewinder X1: simple, superbly processed and characterised by an extraordinary texture. Octoprint installed on a Raspberry Pi (Preferably a Pi 3B or higher but any Linux PC will also work) Coming to the printbead, the prints adhere well at high temperatures and after printing they almost snap off by themselves. However, if the current were to be disrupted, the plate would cool down and, your model would no longer adhere properly (happened to me in a test). Lead screws are kept in sync by the belt in the top, which is nice to see. On my Creality CR 10S PRO, the main issue i had was with bed leveling. Because of the weight of the X assembly, the lead screws would get out of sync causing fist layer issues. All in all if you are looking for a big printer this is a good choice, I would definitely buy it again since I mostly print PLA. Oh and as a last thing, the spool holder is trash, I printed one which sits on top of the provided one and its much better. ( the abs stuff and the spool holder thing is why it has 4 not 5 stars from me )A direct drive extruder significantly improves the reliability of the 3D printer, especially with flexible filaments. This is a rare feature for a 3D printer in the entry-level segment.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 Review: Best in Mid-Range | All3DP

The Artillery Sidewinder has a very large build space of 300 x 300 x 400 mm. This also gives you enough space for larger projects. If you use an ABL sensor, you should basically be good to go at this point—do your standard routine of manual corner screw adjustment followed by ABL tweaking.

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The inductive end stops should be more precise than their mechanical counterparts. However, so far I have not noticed this either positively or negatively. Ultimately, the advantage would only really come into play with the Z-axis. Unfortunately, the end stops are fixed to the aluminum profiles, so that subsequent adjustment requires additional effort.

Sidewinder X1 Max Temp???? : r/SidewinderX1 - Reddit Sidewinder X1 Max Temp???? : r/SidewinderX1 - Reddit

The structure (hotend, Z-axis, etc.) is hidden on one level and the base (power supply, mainboard, etc.) on the other. Start the printer and heat the nozzle and heatbed (200C for the hotend and 60c for the heatbed should be fine). I’ve uploaded everything needed to my PrusaPrinters.org profile. Because my parts will be living in a heated printing enclosure, I printed them in ABS for the increased temperature tolerance. PETG would be a good choice for room-temperature applications. I would avoid PLA due to its tendency towards creep under sustained loads, such as will be experienced by the belt mounts. Disassemble Y axis and remove roller wheelsThe machine’s print head has an RGB LED on the underside. Therefore, your print object will always be beautifully illuminated (see below). The Titan extruder is a clone, and the heating is not the best. It did not cause issues, but it can be improved with small tweaks. I was even able to print a test cube successfully with no fan cooling the heatsink (I forgot to plug the fan) but after it was finished the filament clogged the heat-break. The heatsink was hot to the touch. So, not a good idea. The power supply is passive, but considering that it only powers the printer hardware and hotend, it’s more than enough. The heatbed runs on mains power (in my case 220V) and it’s powered by the integrated Solid State Relay. It’s recommended to perform a PID tune to make sure the temperatures are stable. You can follow PID Tuning Guide to do this.

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A synchronized, dual Z-axis, double lead screw and a closed synchronous belt ensure good performance. The exclusive Z-axis coupler avoids layer problems and gives the print a certain sophistication and better quality. First, remove the heated bed from the Y axis carriage. Fully unscrew each of the four adjustment wheels until they’re completely off the screws. You can then carefully remove the bed and lay it off to the side. Take care not to lose the springs! The Sidewinder X1 offers a lot of great features, a large build space - and all of this at a very competitive price. As a result, the printer has become one of the most popular 3D printers on the market. If you are interested in the difference between Klipper v0.9.x and v0.10.0 -> see: https://github.com/tispokes/Clanks-Klipper-Configs/commit/334f693c54555fcc70fdc5e86cf304bbb6e66e51 The tempered glass print platform ensures excellent adhesion and smooth printing. Thanks to its excellent thermal conductivity, the AC heated bed can be heated to 110 ° C in just 2 minutes; the maximum heating bed temperature is 130 ° C.Before your first print it’s important to also set your offset again. For ABL users this is easy. You can follow 3DMN’s video. If you still use manual bed leveling you will need to carefully re-position the Z endstop so the nozzle stops just above the bed. The distance between the nozzle and the bed should be about 0.1 mm, so you can use a piece of paper for this. I recently struggled by findig a good and fast installation manual for Klipper with this combination. In the front left of the base, the color touchscreen resides, and on top the SD card and USB outlet.