Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. View a selection of useful mounting brackets and clips which can used for securing components to the chassis.

I’m currently restoring my 1985 Opel Monza GSE which I’ve owned for 31yrs now and which has had Automec silicone brake fluid fitted since the late 90’s and, despite standing unused for 20 years, still had serviceable brakes without sticking pistons etc due to the silicone fluid! I can point you to at least 4 or 5 people that have used Copper and they have all had failures directly behind the flare, thats where it always breaks due to fatigue when flared.

Those with more technical experience of brake lines will be along shortly to explain in more detail. Anyone have any advice/suggestions as to whether copper is fine, copper-nickel is great or whether the steel lines are a must?

Ive been using a lot of cu-ni and copper to make oil feed lines lately cu-ni seems to work harden noticeably as you bend it starts off bending like copper and by the end of the bend it feels like steel.I personally think that's where a lot of problems with copper come from, coupled with incorrect flaring, bending it whilst hardened making it extremely brittle etc. Welcome to the Forum of the UK's National Street Rod Association - we hope you'll find it interesting and useful. Flexibility is essential when routing complicated line paths, especially from the engine compartment to the rear wheels. Little extras, highly appreciated: nice box containing the parts, protective caps, each line individually marked and using the number scheme made identification a breeze. did my lads 05 BMW and they were all seized due to rust, where the brake pipe connected to the flexi pipes.

If you know anyone local with a brake pipe tool you might be able to cut off the formed end, slide on a new union and make a new flare in situ. I always think of copper as being for central heating, but plenty of people use it on cars, so I guess it is a matter of choice. It's one of the fronts and it is clipped to the bulkhead behine the damned engine so is bloody hard to get to for a steel replacement as they tend to be a bit inflexible. Joining the NSRA involves you in the UK’s National organisation for hot rods, street rods, and customs.

Does the pipe cut OK with a small version of those plumber's tools which you sin around and gradually tighten? Personally, I would happily use copper and never worry one moment about it, same as if I used Kunifer. Secure the pipes properly to prevent vibration using the clips supplied to supplement those you already have on the car. Its fine to do yourself op, but expect to have to redo a couple as you will likely make a mistake or two. Be part of the club that brings you the Fun Run, the Hot Rod Supernationals, the Nostalgia Nationals, the Hot Rod Drags, and more.